Dan Soderberg Photography

California, An Endangered Species.

The past and the present. I was born at this location in San Marcos (San Diego County), California in 1956. Ten or fifteen years ago I could have found my way here nearly blindfolded. I had to really search for it this time–nearly all recognizable landmarks are gone. Quiet country living has given way to a freeway and strip malls.


Sam Soderberg and neighbor friend.

During the first half of the twentieth century there was what could be called a romance of California living. Frank Lloyd Wright once used the term California Romanza. City life was in a patchwork of what are called urban villages. Both San Diego and Los Angeles had a grid of metropolitan trolley lines. Planners in those days built many bungalows and bungalow courts along these trolley lines. In San Diego of 1947 you paid a nickel to ride anywhere among the urban villages. Downtown, North Park, Kensington, Normal Heights, Hillcrest, Mission Hills, University Heights were among the familiar names along the way. Many dwellings came without garages–it was typical for many to get around without an automobile.

But city living was only one option when living the California Romanza. There was also the country life. Quiet, wide open spaces and fresh air. San Marcos of 1956 was a part of a much more expansive patchwork of areas perhaps too sparsely populated to be called villages. You really only became aware of entering San Marcos because of a cluster of signs indicating the agricultural organizations of the area. The chicken population of San Marcos was vastly greater than the human population.

Gone are the picket fences, the old farm houses, chicken ranches, and livestock. Echo Lane, which was then a dirt road (It washed out during wet years) is now a drive way into the parking lot for big box retailers including Home Depot.

The sign at the edge of the property read “Echo Lane Kennels.” My mom and dad raised beagles and won a shelf full of trophies and ribbons from dog shows. We had this horse for a short time. It was a temperamental creature that liked to throw its rider and kick.

Not a horse friendly sight now. The parking lot and architecture could really be anywhere. All across the country there are countless such developments. A homogeneous strip mall model has cookie-cut its way from one end of the country to the other. The landscaping here falls into a term commonly used: “mitigation.” When enough people decry the ugliness of a development, a few bushes and trees are added to “mitigate” the impact.

These were the “star” breeders for Echo Lane Kennels, Marilyn and Joe–named after Marilyn Monroe and Joe DiMaggio. These two beagles produced many a prize winning offspring.

Sam and Zack Soderberg

And there were sheep. A child’s life centered around household animals and livestock on several acres of land can only be found in California nowadays in areas far more remote than San Marcos. Once just a dot on the map, San Marcos today is joined at the hip with Escondido as a mini megalopolis.

No longer a place where “the sheep and the antelope play.” One of the reasons so many of us “old timers” got involved with the effort to save Trestles and San Onofre State Park is because we have witnessed the huge change in California in our life time. The creation of the California Coastal Commission was largely the result of a realization that California was being lost to development. Having this commission was a figurative drawing of a line in the sand. We’ve pretty much lost the interior of California to freeways, subdivisions and strip malls. The country life of communities such as San Marcos is gone forever. But the creation of the Coastal Commission was to say “hands off” when it comes to the coastal corridor. Yet even with that, it is a difficult struggle to keep what is left.

This small country house I was born in was certainly no Buckingham palace. However it was very sad when I drove by here in June of 1983 and found the old familiar gravel driveway no longer attached to any structure.

The house used to be on the left side. Straight ahead there was a barn. Nothing left in 1983 but the foundations and rubble.

The kennel and former home of Joe and Marilyn. My dad told me that shortly after I learned to walk I became very adapt at climbing this fence. He seemed to enjoy recalling how my toes curled around the wire just as my fingers did when scaling the fence.

And then it came to this. A pile of rubble in 1983. Finally a parking lot and strip mall.

And Echo Lane is no more. This is like a metaphor of what has happened to California. An echo barely heard of a time prior to the day of the red trolley cars being sent to the junk yards. Before public transit was forsaken. Before the automobile and freeways became priority. In fact this is how my family came to leave San Marcos. The freeway built there lopped off part of our property. And once the freeway went in, everything else followed. Many of us who have seen this play out time and time again in California had to step up and say “NO!” to the freeway proposal through San Onofre State Park. Once a park is gone it doesn’t come back. Just as Echo Lane will never be again.

Dan Soderberg Photography

Highway From Hell. The Effort To Save Trestles.

PLEASE NOTE: The update A VICTORY FOR TRESTLES link is below at the end of this piece.

“Tricky Dick” may have been many things. But Richard Nixon wasn’t without fine taste in choosing this site for his “Western White House” during his years as U.S. President. His house was a top this bluff which provides a fine view of the beach and surfing spot known as Trestles.


It is called Trestles because of the train track and trestles that ride along the coastline through here. This is part of some 3,000 acres that comprise San Onofre State Park. In addition to the beach area the park includes the San Mateo Creek and San Mateo Campgrounds–all designated as a State Park in 1971 by Governor Ronald Reagan.

The trestles at Trestles. The San Mateo Creek is one of the few relatively unobstructed streams remaining on the west coast.


The lack of serious stream obstruction allows mother nature to replenish the beach area with renewed silt and sand. Most areas along the coast that have lost flowing streams to the ocean (because of development) now have eroding beaches. Trestles boasts an abundant broad beach.


A tree as driftwood. Another material critical to the nature of this beach are the large round river rocks that tumble downstream during significant storms. These rocks form the foundation of reefs along Trestles that make this one of the premier surfing locations on the planet. The consistent waves at Trestles are characterized by their sloping wide faces giving a surfer ample room to “carve it up.”

Trestles isn’t a beach you drive up to or easily reach. It is about a mile walk or so–depending on which stretch of State Park Beach you prefer. The scenery and environment along the way is extraordinary.

But now this beautiful and rare State Park is in danger. “Powers that be” want to transform parkland into a new freeway called “The Toll Road.” Because of worsening traffic jams on over crowded Interstate 5, the plan is to do what they’ve always done in California, build more freeway. In the photo above you see Interstate 5, the upper bridge structure. The bridge below used to be U.S. 101. Back in the days of U.S. 101 everyone complained about how bad the traffic was. So Interstate 5 was built. It was supposed to be the solution to all the traffic problems. “The solution was short lived. There are stretches of Interstate 5 that have been expanded numerous times since its completion back in the 1960’s. Yet no matter how many lanes are added and added again, we end up in the same old problem. Too much traffic. Now the transportation and traffic planners are at it again. The idea is for San Onofre State park to be sacrificed at the altar for the all mighty automobile gods. And since this freeway, a toll road, is a private enterprise–a private development–someone is going to make a lot of money from this wholesale decimation of this gorgeous natural preserve. One wise comment I heard “They”re trying to solve a 21st Century problem with a 1960’s solution.”

These concrete monstrosities have a severe impact on the land, the vegetation and the animals. The native coastal chaparral becomes significantly disturbed by the huge shadow and lack of sunshine these structures impose. The problem developers and planners refuse to look at is that no matter how many freeways we build it will never be enough. “If you keep doing the same old thing, you’ll keep getting the same old results.”

Here is a view of the parkland that will be lost. The dirt path here will give way to earth movers, backhoes, and tractors. Then the landscape will be scarred and then blighted with looming bands of concrete and steel. Once we lose so much of this State Park, which State Park or Natural Wonder will be next? Why must we be fighting the battles all over again that such people as Teddy Roosevelt and John Muir had to wage? As long as there is greed and shortsighted policy, the struggle will always persist. Arnold Schwarzenegger likes this project and is pushing for it.

The Surfrider Foundation, among many other groups, has fought this project long and hard. Here is the sidewalk demonstration I attended on Saturday, February 2 in San Clemente.

The demonstration is working up to a more comprehensive show of force at a California Coastal Commission meeting to be held in Del Mar on February 6th. A decision on the issue may well be forthcoming from this meeting. Surfrider Foundation and The Sierra Club, among others, are planning and seeking a large turnout of members and friends for this meeting.

At least a hundred residents and members were there. All ages, men, women, boys and girls.

Two leg demonstrators, four leg demonstrators. In this case, 3 leg demonstrator.

Three legs are not a handicap for “Lucky.” He moves about just as if he had 4 legs.

Lots of horn honking in support of the demonstration that day.

Save Trestles Demonstration_35

Join me for the California Coastal Commission meeting on Wednesday February 6th, 9 A.M. at the Del Mar Fairgrounds—at Wyland Hall 2260 Jimmy Durante Blvd. Del Mar, CA 92014 – Just off the I-5 in Del Mar at Via de la Valle exit. This is the most important hearing in regards to the future Trestles and San Onofre State Park, as the Commission will hear the application for the Foothill South Toll Road.

For Further info

http://www.surfridersd.org/

My other pictures of Saturday’s rally in San Clemente: http://homepage.mac.com/danielsoderberg/SaveTrestles/PhotoAlbum51.html

UPDATE: (click below)

A Victory For Trestles

Architecture

There Used To Be A Ballpark Right Here

And there used to be a ballpark
Where the field was warm and green
And the people played their crazy game
With a joy I’d never seen.
And the air was such a wonder
From the hot dogs and the beer
Yes, there used a ballpark, right here.

Born from the design table of Gary Allen at Frank L. Hope and Associates, San Diego Stadium opened in August of 1967. Gary Allen came there with experience working under the renown architect Philip Johnson. To the architects of the mid century modern era, designing stadiums as multi function venues made sense. Combining football and baseball use in one facility was a strong selling point in San Diego for the 1965 stadium bond measure. Although no opposing arguments appeared on the ballot, I well remember hearing the debate. “The teams can’t fill stadiums they have already, why should we build them a new one?”

Of all the 1960’s multi use stadiums, San Diego Stadium stands alone architecturally. It opted for a pure, simple yet bold look achieved in poured concrete. Other stadiums of the period did not show nearly the same level of aesthetic consideration. It should be noted the American Institute of Architects Honor award in 1969 was given to San Diego Stadium for outstanding design. This was the first time ever a San Diego structure received an A.I.A national honor award.

The concrete work here is superb. The grandstand is cradled by the ribs of a colonnade that rise to support light fixtures.

The simplicity perhaps disguises the thought put into this. The slanted colonnade, and top sloping of the elevator column gives a touch of elegance.

It seems the strong smooth gray concrete forms were meant to have an undecorated raw beauty. Extremely bold accent colors in the concourse served as spice and contrast.

It was after all the 1960’s. From London’s Carnaby Street to the Sunset Strip, art, fashion and architecture reapproached uses of color. The smooth poured concrete surfaces find texture relief in the concourse areas with colored square blocks.

A nearly op art looking fence obscures generators and compressors.

Through the years decision makers grew dissatisfied with the bare gray concrete. More and more of the stadium was coated in Chargers blue paint.

The stadium was originally open with a view at the east end. From the grandstands it was most pleasant viewing east mission valley, the mountains, freeway lights and the periodic moon rise. A breeze was mostly gentle and pleasant–although it could be chilly and swirly at times. I remember attending a baseball game that saw a “dust devil” kick up. It whirled and swirled around the grandstand collecting trash and debris before moving onto the baseball diamond. It was a tornado of trash that seemed to purposely pursue one umpire. The players and fans laughed hysterically as the umpire threw up his hands to stop the game and try to escape the determined twister. Finally when it died out and all the trash landed, a crew ran on the field and picked up the mess. A Jack In The Box hamburger wrapper clung to the umpire’s rear quarters for two innings more before another umpire peeled it off to laughter and ovation of the crowd.
The stadium as it looks today is much different than in these photos. The original accent color scheme is gone. The open east end is now enclosed with grandstands. A whole list of problems developed with plumbing, water, toilets, sewer and electrical systems designed to serve 50,000 people having to serve over 70,000. The Chargers are dissatisfied with the size of the press corps facilities, the number of high value luxury suites, the size of the locker rooms and trainer’s facilities, and many other issues.

But it is hard to see losing this fine example of a public mid century modern work as justified for the reasons mentioned. Existing trends, however, do not favor the stadium’s future. Steinbrenner’s NY Yankees, tor example, are intent on abandoning hallowed grounds–“The House That Ruth Built.” Extremely wealthy franchise owners have an expectation for municipalities to ask “how high?” when they say “jump.” It is fair to examine how the pouring of over $60 million dollars into renovations of San Diego Stadium in 1997 failed to satisfy the NFL and team owners. The drumbeat for a new facility has been ongoing for years now. That $60 million dollars doesn’t seem to have bought the taxpayers and sports fans much time on the calendar. The facility is only 40 years old. And only 10 years removed from massive remodeling.

It certainly seems San Diego Stadium–aka Jack Murphy, Qualcomm Stadium–is nearing an end. If this venue is lost someone will surely play the old Frank Sinatra song, There Used To Be A Ballpark Right Here.

Architecture

PCH: Roadside Stops and Detours

The invasion began in 1962. Through the mid 1960’s until 1974 many areas of the U.S.A became the land of giants. Enormous fiberglass men, some twenty feet tall, stood over muffler shops, miniature golf courses, tire stores, and other venues. This population explosion of big men occurred because businesses with them became hugely successful immediately after installation. Back in the 1960’s you could order one for as little as $1,800. With added features and accessories–maybe a hamburger, golf club, or lumberjack ax, and other ad-ons including various garments, hats or facial hair–the price could be as much as $2,800. The basic big man ordered in quantity by a franchise chain could be purchased for a mere $1,000 a unit.

There was a female version produced as well. She was rendered with features resembling Jackie Kennedy. The tall figure had a removable dress and wore a bikini bathing suit underneath.

The giant in the above photo was called Malibu Man. He was a hamburger chef towering over a burger joint on Pacific Coast Highway (PCH) in Malibu. Steve Dashew the entrepreneur behind these big men took special satisfaction with this particular model. It was coincidentally built next to where his ex girlfriend lived. “I thought she’d appreciate the remembrance.”

The figure still stands, but perhaps in a most revealing sign of the times, he is now called Salsa Man. He sports a mustache, wears a sombrero, and has a serape over his shoulder. The hamburger has been replaced by a tray of Mexican food. [1]

This is a detailed replica of Villa dei Papiri, a Roman villa in the town of Herculaneum, which was buried by the eruption of Mount Vesuvius in 79 A.D. Much of the ancient sight was visible only by camera inserted through shafts drilled in the solidified volcanic flow. The man that could afford such a venture was J. Paul Getty. His Museum overlooks the Pacific Ocean in Malibu, just off of PCH.

The gardens, the beauty of the architecture, the gorgeous bluff overlooking the Pacific makes the J. Paul Getty Museum (Now simply called The Villa) a soul soothing place on earth. It reopened in February of 2006 after nearly 12 years and $275 million dollars of remodeling. The museum previously housed both ancient and modern art. Then a second Getty Museum was built in Brentwood to house the modern collection. The Malibu museum closed to reconfigure for the ancient collection and to install teaching/educational facilities.

The original version of the museum was completed in 1974. Getty was living in England at the time and died before he could make the trip back to view his creation. The sorting out of his estate took until 1982 when the J. Paul Getty Museum became the world’s most richly endowed exhibition. Getty bequest 1.2 billion dollars for his art house. [2]

Another monument achieved by extreme wealth is Hearst Castle. This is the magnificent Neptune swimming pool, an architectural masterpiece surrounded by fourth-century Roman columns, Italian bas-reliefs, and contemporary statues from Paris.

The pool is lined with marble quarried in Vermont. The pool was enlarged twice after the original was completed in 1924. The pool as it is today was completed in 1936. As big as it appears, it is some 60 feet shorter than an Olympic size pool.

Hearst Castle in San Simeon is exactly half way between Los Angeles and San Francisco. Either city is two hundred miles away.

This being a “house” with 165 bedrooms and 41 bathrooms, there are 5 different tours offered. Ticket prices range from $20 to $30 for adults. Well worth every penny. Well worth repeat visits to experience all five tours–which I haven’t done yet. But it is on the agenda. [3]

There’s something enchanting about the mix of scents from the ocean and the red woods of Big Sur. The calming peace and quiet found here attracted the likes of Henry Miller, Jack Kerouac, Ansel Adams, Edward Weston, Orson Welles and Rita Hayworth, just to mention a few. And a few of them stayed here at Deetjen’s Big Sur Inn. I had noticed the sign on many a trip through Big Sur. When I finally gave it a try, I found myself a new favorite place to stay.

Helmuth Deetjen, a Scandinavian, settled in the quiet secluded Castro Canyon of Big Sur in the 1930’s and built this barn. Today it is the reception office and dining room of the Inn.

The rustic guest cabins were built by Helmuth in the manner he learned in Norway. The cabins trail up and are tucked into the pastoral canyon.

The rooms are quaint and cozy. There are no televisions, stereos or phones in the rooms. Cell phones do not have reception at Deetjens. Children under 12 are only allowed if the occupants rent all the shared rooms and walls of a freestanding cabin. You get peace and quiet here.

Wood burning stove, copper kettle and ornate chair. Deetjen’s has a time travel feel. It is easy to imagine the atmosphere of the 1930’s here.

A garden paradise is one step out the door. [4]
References and links

1. http://www.roadsideamerica.com/muffler/index.html

2. http://www.csmonitor.com/2006/0203/p15s02-alar.html

http://www.history.com/this-day-in-history.do?action=Article&id=6821

3. http://www.grandtimes.com/hearst.html

http://www.hearstcastle.com/tours/neptune_pool.asp

4. http://www.deetjens.com/home.htm

Dan Soderberg Photography

California Beach Life

It is to be anticipated. All along the California Coastline, especially in summer, crowds stop to observe sunset. Sometimes you hear ovation. Once I noticed a beach party. A band stopped playing just before the solar orb set. A drummer performed a roll. Then the band cranked Sparach Zarathustra, the theme from2001: A Space Odyssey. I saw the people turn to each other with thrilled expressions and clap their hands.

The arches at Belmont Park have stood witness to every sunset since 1925.  But the structure itself built by John D. Spreckles was the victim of short sited demolition.  The Mission Beach Plunge should have been saved and restored.

The sole remaining original amusement park ride at Belmont Park is the Giant Dipper. Its opening highlighted the Fourth of July celebrations of 1925 at Mission Beach.

The amusement park was popular for decades. But by the late 1960’s the venue was thoroughly thread bare and splintered. In 1976 it closed. Two years later, 1978, San Diego City Council voted to demolish the coaster and amusement park.

The Giant Dipper however had some hard core supporters. The coaster got named to the National Register of Historic Places. And the California Coastal Commission was petitioned to intervene as well. A grassroots effort succeeded in its restoration efforts. It was a long difficult task, but the fruits of this labor were harvested on August 11, 1990 when the Giant Dipper finally reopened.

The Mission Beach Boardwalk at Belmont Park. Always a parade of folks.

Kids enjoying the sand at Pacific Beach.

Beach Volleyball at Mission Beach.

Surfboards, aluminum bats, a softball, and towels set out near the volleyball nets. These “grommets” are prepared for a full day of recreation. “Grommet” is surfer lingo meaning young surfer.

Dig, dig, dig.

More advanced digs, Venice Beach, California. The artists silhouette on the umbrella. His cash/tips bucket.

Venice Beach, CA. Even beaches near a metropolitan area the size of Los Angeles are quietly enjoyed by beach lovers in Winter. All the land lubbers seasonally stay away. Summer time is another story however.

It could have been a section of rocky beach anywhere in northern California except for the obvious clue. Baker Beach, San Francisco, California.

When shorts imitate shadow. Oceanside, CA.

Kite flying at Ocean Beach.

Hang Gliders at Torrey Pines.

Lifeguard on duty, Pacific Beach.

Junior Lifeguards, Huntington Beach.

When he’s not surfing, he’s skateboarding. When he’s not skateboarding or surfing, he’s likely snowboarding. Or skiing.

The Head Honcho, Encinitas.

In search of smaller critters.

The stingray has been the bane to many a surfer.

Summer Picnic, Mission Beach.

Popular boardwalk watering hole, Pacific Beach.

Crystal Pier was built in 1927. The hotel cottages were added ten years later.

Evening sessions are desirable to surfers because the day’s wind typically dies down making for smoother, cleaner waves.

“Dawn Patrol” is early morning surfing. Echoes of the legendary Pump House Gang, La Jolla.

A crew will often observe swell trends and intervals before donning wetsuits.

There is no one definition of the surfing experience. For many it is a communal activity shared with best buddies. For others it is a solitary, meditative and soulful interest. For most at times it can be both.

Competitive Surfing is very popular. A young surfer highly covets sponsorship.

Sponsorship leads to free surfboards, wetsuits, and clothing. Surfing contests are “the world’s best way to meet chicks.”

Surfing is not easy. It compares closely with mastering a musical instrument. To be accomplished and maintain a high level, one must dedicate time and consistency to it. The basics are this. Cleanly and smoothly paddle the board, shore bound, as the forming wave approaches. When the surfer feels his board lift with the cresting wave, he quickly moves to his feet and “Drops In.”

Dropping In is a descent on a wave’s open face and moving to where the surfer can turn and rise back up the wave and “smack the lip.”

A surfer working an open section of wave. Smacking or attacking the wave lip renders a dramatic fanning spray. The surfer then turns again downward to re-approach the wave face for more maneuvers.

Small waves challenge competitive surfers to show their skills on a more limited canvass, so to speak. Large wave surfing tests one’s athleticism. Paddling out beyond the the beach break is physically demanding. Large crashing waves keeps one underwater for uncomfortably long periods as it is a struggle to resurface for air. Giant waves can and will break boards and bones.

Surfing conditions in southern California only occasionally attain “epic” size. But even dropping down the face of a 6 foot wave achieves a sensationally fast speed. This “ballet on water” is made to look easy because of the skills surfers achieve from a young age. And lots of practice. But they have a great time doing it.

Dan Soderberg Photography

Tumacacori

Territory known today as southern Arizona and northern Sonora Mexico was originally Pima Indian territory, the Pimeria Alta. Their settlements nestled along various river tracks. Thus the name “Pima,” given by the Spanish, indicates “river people.” The natives had an agrarian society that mastered irrigation with diverted river water. Growing corn, beans and squash. They were artisans. Pima made baskets with their distinctive coil construction and geometric patterns which are highly desirable to this day. Their architecture used bent tree saplings to form dome shaped structures. They had their own government, political hierarchy, and means to defend themselves or attack outside forces.

But in the end they were no match for the Spaniards.

A church has been present at Tumacacori since 1753. The structure as it exists now, San Jose de Tumacacori, began in 1800.

The Jesuit Missionary Priest Eusebio Kino (1645-1711) first met the natives at Tumacacori in 1691. He was an educated man that came to devote his life to Missionary work. In the league of Spaniards entering New Spain for such work, he was the “kind” Padre. He took into account Indian ways. He skillfully taught during his 24 years in the region. The Pimas were receptive pupils in learning about wheat, livestock and fruit trees. He presented Christianity by means of pageantry and ritual rather than dogma. He offered communion and baptized children but then also taught many practical skills. He built other missions. He also established and mapped supply routes throughout the region. He was a “good” soldier of souls for the church and Spain.

The circular mortuary chapel at Tumacacori.

The Pimas were gently “tamed” under Kino. But some 40 years after Kino, Spain administered the region far more harshly. Pimas found themselves in slave labor at mines and ranches. They rebelled in 1751. At no point were the Apaches agreeable to foreign occupation. Their insurgency had been continual. A presidio built at Tubac was the result. But Apache attacks continued until the late 19th century as the territory transitioned from Spainish domain to independent Mexico, and finally to the U.S. in 1853.

The grave sites are only from the late 19th and early 20th century. Evidence of mission era graves has vanished.

The Soto Family lived in Tumacacori at the turn of the century.

The weathered soft curves of Tumacacori clay walls cast interesting curvaceous shadows.

Tumacacori National Monument is located 45 miles south of Tucson and 19 miles north of Nogalas. It came under protection of the U.S. Forrest Service, and later the National Park Service, by executive order of President Theodore Roosevelt in 1908.

Architecture

John and Frances

JOHN

He was with his father in Chicago that day, August 14, 1914, when the call came. “Taliesin destroyed by Fire.” John Lloyd Wright accompanied his father Frank Lloyd Wright on the first departing train. The news, learned in fragments during the trek, couldn’t have been worse. They found not only the house destroyed , but Wright’s mistress Mamah Cheney, for whom he built Taliesin to share, brutally murdered along with her two children. A household employee, gone crazy, set the blaze and bludgeoned the fleeing victims with an ax.

John was at his father’s side to help lift the woman, whom FLLW left his mother for, into a plain box coffin lined with flowers from Mamah’s Taliesin garden.

A Portion of the original Taliesin Wright built to share with Mamah Cheney.

John’s mother Catherine had refused to grant FLLW a divorce so he could marry his mistress. With Victorian era morality prominent then, such a relationship was extremely scandalous. He built a house for the Cheneys in his own neighborhood, Oak Park, Illinois. For Wright to “take” the client’s wife caused outrage. When people saw the architect and Mrs. Cheney happily riding about together in Wright’s Roadster people condemned this as an unabashed flaunting of an immoral lifestyle.

Edwin and Mamah Cheney Residence, Oak Park, Illinois. 1903

In 1909 The couple fled to Europe escaping the controversy for a year. He left behind his wife and six children. These decisions and choices only worsened people’s indignation at home. Taliesin came about as their retreat and safe haven in the quiet countryside of Spring Green, Wisconsin. This vast tract was home territory of his mother, aunts, uncles and grand-parents.

For John the events were a traumatic seal to an otherwise happy carefree childhood. Though in his last year of school John faced classmates shaming remarks and attitudes.

As children he and his five siblings were an unruly lot at Frank Lloyd Wright’s house and studio in Oak Park. In reality there was only one parent figure, mother Catherine. Father was more like a sibling, playmate or rival than a parent. Catherine ran the household. She raised and educated the kids.

Wright’s Home and Studio, 1889, Oak Park, Illinois.

FLLW however created a fantastic atmosphere. The children loved the barrel vaulted playroom he built. It was stocked with playthings appealing to Wright as much as the children. There were building blocks fashioned after the Froebel kindergarten toys he knew as a child. He brought in “funny mechanical toys.” And introduced them to Bach, Beethoven and Mozart just as he had been. It could be said Wright designs are especially appealing whenever he took children into account. (See Wingspread an inventive custom design for clients with children).

FLLW Residence and Studio, 1889, Oak Park, Illinois.

In many respects these Oak Park years were a party. “Papa’s parties were best of all. He had clambakes, tea parties in his studio, cotillions in the large drafting room; gay affairs about the blazing logs that snapped and crackled in the big fireplace. From week to week, month to month, our home was a round of parties. There were parties somewhere all of the time and everywhere some of the time.” Famously, or infamously, it was typical for the Wright children to run amuck while clients and guests were entertained.

Those memories must have seemed distant that day John helped shoulder Mamah’s box coffin to its final resting place at Taliesin.A life in architecture was not a choice he made right away. Like his father he attempted University studies. The end result was also the same; he dropped out. In 1911 he abandoned his mid-west homeland for opportunities on the west coast. He found Portland, Oregon. He worked there briefly with a paving contractor. Later he joined up with his brother Lloyd in San Diego who was employed with landscaping Balboa Park for the Pan Pacific Exposition. Among John’s early odd jobs was pressing clothes. That lasted all but three days when he burned a garment.

John fondly remembered the Oak Park parties, clambakes and social gatherings.
A realization came upon him that a career in architecture was conducive to such a lifestyle.The Pacific Building Company located on University Avenue in east San Diego had a sign out “Draftsman Wanted.” The firm provided both architectural design and contractor services. Some of the draftsmen were from Irving Gill’s firm. Wright drew “cobblestone bungalow” designs before promotion to the Chief Designer’s table.

Looking to move his career up a notch or two, John took a position with the Los Angeles firm of Harrison Albright. Mr. Albright designed the U.S. Grant Hotel in San Diego along with numerous commissions for John D. Spreckles. John really had to “work his way up” at that office. He was a designated chauffeur, errand boy and one-finger typist. But some architectural assignments finally came his way. A house in Escondido which he adapted from one of his father’s projects in Illinois.

Golden West Hotel, John Lloyd Wright, 1913.

And the Workingman’s Hotel (Now called Golden West Hotel) in downtown San Diego. John at 20 years of age explored many of the design elements he enjoyed using his entire career.

But he was still relying upon reference books and the helpfulness of others to render his ideas architecturally. He sought more education and experience.

“I did not want to ask Dad to take me into his office for he had not encouraged me toward this end, so I wrote to Otto Wagner, the great Austrian architect who had a school of modern architecture in Vienna. I asked Mr. Wagner if I could serve him as apprentice for a few years in exchange for my room and board. His prompt reply translated was: “.. .Come on…”

“I felt I was on the way toward making Dad proud of me, so I wrote to him asking his help to buy the ticket to Vienna. I enclosed photographs of the Wood House and the Workingman’s Hotel. He telegraphed: “Meet me in Los Angeles in two weeks…” He thought his office would be better for me than Otto Wagner’s. “I’d like to know what Otto Wagner can do for you that your father can’t do!” This was the way he invited me to work for him.”

John came to know the pressure, discomfort and turmoil many offspring of brilliant famous people came to know. A dominating shadow difficult to escape.

FLLW put John in charge of his Chicago Office in 1913. He enrolled John in engineering courses as well. It was also about this time John married his first wife Jeanette Winters whom he met in Los Angeles.

One of FLLW’s major commissions came in Autumn 1913, the Midway Gardens. His client Ed Waller, whom already lived in a FLLW house, said “I believe Chicago would appreciate a beautiful garden resort. Our people would go there, listen to good music, eat and drink. You know, an outdoor garden something like those little parks around Munich where German families go.”

The dining hall chairs at Taliesin West are from Midway Gardens.

Midway Gardens was near completion when that August 14th call came. “Taliesin destroyed by fire.”

A lull followed the tragedy. Midway Gardens was completed. Then John’s focus was designing children’s toys. It was a talent seemingly rooted in his childhood experiences with toys FLLW had brought into the Oak Park home and studio. The best known John Lloyd Wright toy invention was “Lincoln Logs.”

The next big FLLW commission came in 1917, the Tokio Imperial Hotel. John was appointed on site supervisor. FLLW was very hard on both his architect sons, Lloyd and John. In John’s case FLLW was negligent in paying earned and due salary. In Tokio some funds came in from a smaller Japanese project the Wrights were working on. When John subtracted what was due him and wired the remainder to his father in the U.S. a telegraphed response was received the next day. “You’re fired. Take the next ship home.”

John learned a great deal from his work on Midway Gardens and Imperial Hotel. But much of his time spent after returning from Japan was, again, designing toys. He marketed his product at Marshal Fields Department Store. His brand icon was a red square similar to his father’s signature icon.

In 1920 John took up residence again in an apartment at his childhood home, the Oak Park House and Studio. In 1921 he married his second wife Hazel Lundin. His first child Elizabeth was born there in 1922.

John and his family moved to Michigan City, Indiana in 1923. There in an enclave along Lake Michigan called Long Beach he settled in to build his independent architectural practice. There was a sign. “John Lloyd Wright, Architect” followed by the red square signature icon. John forged a style that paid respect to his father’s principles of Organic Architecture. Yet he consciously filtered the influence. To exercise his own architectural language.

John Lloyd Wright balanced work with time spent with his family. His toy designs were tried at home by his children, Elizabeth and John Junior– “Jack.” They enjoyed an enchanted childhood just as John had with all the toys FLLW brought home.

This Long Beach chapter of John Lloyd Wright’s career represented 15 years of solid creative work. There were numerous fine homes and public works that included an acclaimed school design and a police station. The culmination of his career to this point came with a commission called “Shangri-La.”

Frances

Frank Welsh, his wife Frances and step son Lou spent summers at a rented place in Michigan City called “Tree Tops.” But they wished to build their own place. Frances’ son Lou, as a student at the University of Chicago, became familiar with and admired Frank Lloyd Wright’s Robie House of 1909.

Frank Lloyd Wright’s Robie House, Chicago, Illinois, achieved international renown in 1909.

One day there in Michigan City Lou drove by a sign which caught his eye. “John Lloyd Wright, Architect.” Lou thought “Oh my god, he must be related to Frank Lloyd Wright.” He looked him up and found out he was the son.

He told his mother Frances “Well of course the architect you need is this man John Lloyd Wright. And he lives right here in town.” He found out he designed the school there as well. When John Met Francis “electricity” was generated. Perhaps keeping in mind the calamity created by his father’s affair, the relationship that developed between John and Frances was professional and social. The circumstances bringing them together took a long time to develop. John was reluctant to leave his family.

Frances was previously married to a man with the last name Gordon. This was Lou’s father. Frances was a professional writer; a successful metaphysical writer, teacher and practitioner associated with the Christian Science Church. However the Christian Science Church accused her of being a heretic for her independent thinking. There was an inquisition and they tried to kick her out of the church.

So Frances became independent. With her shock of red flaming hair she had a dramatic charismatic presence. All the people she’d been healing, helping and teaching followed her. She had an appeal and persona much like Aimee Semple McPherson.

One man following her away from the Church was also a Christian Science teacher and healer named Frank Welsh. He too was an attractive charismatic figure. A handsome white hair man that was 15 years her senior. The two of them were a dynamic force attracting students and devotees near and far. They held coop at their Michigan City retreat, “Tree Tops.” The two eventually married; Frank adopted Lou.

The success of their enterprise is what led them to John Lloyd Wright and the creation of Shangri-La. It was also called “House of Seven Levels” because of the unique multi level way Wright saddled the structure amongst dunes. Shangri-La was the 1938 culmination of all his experience and skill.

There was one additional cast member in this scene. A wealthy woman who was distantly related to Frances. Frank allowed her to also live at Shangri-La. Having a second woman living in the house caused problems between Frank and Frances. The arrangement greatly irritated Frances. She wanted Frank to ask her to leave, but he wouldn’t do it. She still loved Frank, but when he allowed the woman to remain Frances decided she had enough. She kicked both of them out of the house.

The John and Frances romantic relationship incubated over a long period. In 1942 it hatched. The couple drove to Reno and each got divorces. Then they married. Several factors led them to move away from Michigan City. John was in a similar situation as his father faced. Having left his family to be with a wife’s client evoked hometown disapproval. It is speculated John’s biography of FLLW “My Father Who is on Earth” was indirectly autobiographical as well. Especially in his sympathetic portrayal of the FLLW and Mamah Cheney affair.

Another parallel with John and his father: he also experienced a career changing fire at his studio. His papers, projects on drawing boards were destroyed in a blaze.

More than wanting to rebuild John wanted a fresh start. , Frances wanted to leave Shangri-La and her memories from there behind.
They headed to La Jolla, California where they had friends, The Kelloggs, owners of the La Jolla Beach and Tennis Club. John and Francis stayed there while looking around. When Francis stood upon a hill in Del Mar she brightly said “This is a great place. Let’s build here.” It was a fairly sizable stretch of land. The idea was for John to build their house, then sell off parcels which he also would design houses for. John and Frances built their Del Mar house in 1947.

John Lloyd Wright, in similar respect with his father, was prone to bad judgment and decision making concerning money and business. For instance, he made precious little on his “Lincoln Logs.” He sold his interest too cheaply. When it came to his undeveloped land in Del Mar–which today is among the most valuable pieces of real estate in California–JLLW practically gave away the lots.

The Mckinley family bought one lot that John built a house for. Peggy and Horace Smith, friends of the Wrights, bought another one and built a Wright house. And Bea Kelly bought a lot. She was going to use John as an architect. However Francis and Bea Kelly got into a fight–two hot tempered red heads–and that proposition ended. The parcel sold for $1,200. That was cheap even for that day.

One of Wright’s worst lapses of Judgment concerned maintaining his Architect’s License. When he moved to California from Indiana he didn’t bother to renew his Indiana, Illinois and Ohio licenses. He didn’t want to pay the fees. Any of those certificates would have granted him “reciprocity” in California. He landed in deep legal trouble for practicing architecture without a license. To add insult to injury he was so far removed from the days when he studied engineering that when it came to applying formulas and figuring out problems he never encountered in practicing practical architecture, he failed the exam. More than once.

By this time Frances’ son Lou Welsh and his wife Pat lived in Los Angeles. He practiced Law there. It turned out JLLW was fortunate to have a skilled lawyer for a step son. John’s troubles seemed almost continual. However In the end, to practice his livelihood, John could only state he was an “Architectural Designer,” not an Architect. Even though in all practicality it is not uncommon for established architects to not do their own engineering and number crunching.

Lou had rendered over $10,000 worth of legal work for the Wrights. Payment for those services was in the form of Wright’s next door lot and a JLLW house plan. Lou and Pat paid the construction costs.

“Lou and I met on a blind date,” said Pat Welsh, and It was ZOOM! We were married six weeks later.”

“It was either marriage or never see each other again as I was going on to a job first up north–in California–and then to New York. Getting married looked like the right thing. It felt like the right thing. We took the plunge and I think it paid off.

“We lived in various places from Malibu to Claremont for about 5 years. I taught at Scripps for the last year or two as an assistant in Humanities One, which is the Ancient World. We moved down here and built the house. I lived next door to the Wrights for 28 years which was an interesting experience. ”

John and Frances–The Lifestyle and atmosphere of The Wrights

One of John Lloyd Wright’s guiding principles is “There are no insignificant details.” The slogan pertains to the design elements within his structures. However it actually reflected in their lifestyle as well. Their distinctive choices in colorful clothes, cars, jewelery and accessories made them noticeable individuals.

Pat Welsh remembers “They were flamboyant people. They dressed in a flamboyant manner. John wore a ten-gallon Stetson hat. He always had a cane which he didn’t need. He sported the cane, as his father did too, and pointed to things, swaggered with it on the street. He wore very attractive slacks and gabardine shirts, a silver chain around his neck that had been his grand mothers watch chain, I think, and he had a watch on it that he kept in his pocket. He always smoked a cigar. The ash would grow long and kind of drop down his jacket.

“Francis wore silk gowns that flowed and very very teetery high heels. As she grew older she wore a wig. And she had long eye lashes that were applied–by me! Long red finger nails–even though she liked gardening and was pretty good at it. Lots of make up. They were very dramatic and very well known in La Jolla.

“They went to La Jolla every Wednesday. In those days there was no market in Del Mar, I also went to La Jolla once a week — did all the grocery shopping and took my children when they were little with me. A delightful trip, about 8 miles. There was no freeway then; we took the coastal road. It was a lot quicker getting into La Jolla than it is now–there were very few lights, and it was easy. That was kind of an outing, but I went on a different day.

“The Wrights would go to La Jolla, do their grocery shopping and go to the clothing stores whether they bought anything or not. They liked to go to Magnums. Francis wore a lot of silver jewelry, big rings, and a lot of turquoise, and dangling ear rings. Flaming Red hair. They were quite well known that way.

“The Wrights in the very early days had a Jaguar. it was gray and very handsome but ALWAYS breaking down. They sold that then had Cadillacs–the biggest and most fantastic looking; the most amazing colors they had to pay extra for. Francis never drove. She did when she was younger, but John did the driving.

“In front of their house was a brick wall, like a square, and inside that was poured concrete with a hole in the bottom. They called it The Plunge–It was a swimming pool. It had a wooden structure over it. In Spring they would clean it out every year–which meant I cleaned it out–and let all the water out. As long as it was fresh and nice we swam in it for a few weeks. And that was the end of it. It probably was very dangerous–but we did that. So there was swimming in The Plunge.

“They had a simple garden and patio. They had redwood garden furniture. And the landscape was really very Organic. Big Eucalyptus trees behind the house (Which Francis hated because they dripped leaves–and John loved because they were large). They always argued about it. That was part of their system–constant argument. Francis calling him her “water head.” Insults back and forth. But that’s the way they were. They were flamboyant and used to fight all the time but they loved each other. They came down to dinner every Saturday night and there was always a fight. They’d have a couple of drinks and then they’d fight. It was kind of funny but it did drive me kind of crazy because I like harmony. So I would go outside and get the dog out of the dog fence and take a few deep breaths and go back in!

“My children remember those evenings as marvelous. The Wrights were wonderful–the most loving, kind, thoughtful grand-parents to the kids. John was adorable with them–he loved the kids. He took them every Christmas to the Christmas parade in La Jolla. They took the kids out and bought clothes for them. Took them to Luncheon. They were just neat!”

To have seen John and Frances socially perhaps was a glimpse of the life John once knew with his mother and father at the Oak Park Residence and studio. Those days of clambakes, tea parties, and cotillions.

“We’d put on the music after dinner. The Wrights would dance around and cavort. Everybody would dance. We’d give little shows. And we often had guests–I thought it was good to have guests. Sometimes we’d then go up to their house. My children remember that as a very happy time with their parents, grandparents and guests. The dancing, the cavorting, the jokes, and the music. John played the piano. He played the violin–badly. And other instruments badly. There was always the story that his older brother who was a very good musician would hit him on the head with a dictionary for playing badly.”

In seems John had achieved a fun filled social life that figuratively hearkened Oak Park.

Welsh Residence, Del Mar, 1955, John Lloyd Wright. Pergola covered garden entrance. The Wrights typically didn’t offer “front doors.” Entrance by way of path, garden or patio was fairly common in their plans.

“Frances loved white flowers. She loved white geraniums. They always died on her because they’re the hardest color to grow. She was always replacing them. They had a simple dry garden, lots of rocks.”

Welsh Residence, Del Mar 1955, John Lloyd Wright. The bookshelf is one side of a partition. The opposite side is a utility room. The space is continuous under the slanted beam ceiling. Such spaces gave opportunity for indirect lighting.

“Wright’s interior design was a marriage of Oriental and American Indian art. They had a lot of good stuff. Some of which I still have. Some of which my kids have, especially my older daughter.”

Welsh Residence. A consistent Wright design element was indirect lighting. This “light shelf” seen here in the kitchen extends through all the rooms of the house.

“Francis I’d say was brilliant and talented. She made clothing, screens, jewelry. Wore a lot of Navajo silver. She did amazing art work, color work, lecturing and books. She was a brilliant woman. Frank Lloyd Wright adored her,” remembered Pat.
Pat and Lou knew other members of the Wright family. “There was one Christmas I remember as being difficult. John got into a fight with his brother Lloyd. The wives tried to break them apart. John’s mother Catherine and niece Anne Baxter were there “Anne Baxter opened a champaign bottle and the cork hit her in the eye. Anne was utterly sweet and came to visit from time to time–I loved her.” Eric Lloyd Wright and his wife–I liked very much,” said Pat.

“Frank Lloyd Wright visited once. He came to lecture in La Jolla and San Diego. My daughter Francie sat on his lap, but I was not here.”
Lou didn’t trust the senior Wright. He was certain that he would “fall” for Pat which would only lead to pain and difficulty brought on by Oglivanna, Mrs. Wright. Lou and Pat had been invited to a Wright Easter, but Lou found some “legal matters” to attend to instead. “We could have gone but he chose not to.”

Having the Wrights as in-laws and next door neighbors for 28 years wasn’t easy according to Pat Welsh. “But
amazing enough that is part of what drew me and Lou together.” Pat and Lou supported one another as they coexisted with such colorful individuals with strong if not dominating personalities.

In his later years John’s body of work reveals no real attempt to compete with his fathers highly stylized and dramatic designs. John chose to use the principles of FLLW’s Organic Architecture in a subtle yet faithful way. One could argue these homes, in their more gentle design statement, are more livable than FLLW’s. John felt the work was clearly his own and distinguished. Yet John continually faced a perception that remains to this day. People commonly believe his houses dotting Del Mar’s landscape are Frank Lloyd Wright houses.

In one regard John and his father had a unique bonding. John was with his Father when Taliesin burned and Mamah Cheney was murdered. He’s the only son who apprenticed with Wright, working on two landmark Wright projects–The Midway Gardens and Imperial Hotel. One might imagine the excitement and high hope John must have experienced during this time. Only to have the Father not cut paychecks and to fire his son for taking his due share. The senior Wright later treated John as rival more than a compatriot or son. And course FLLW was famously cruel to his rivals. His colorful antics make for entertaining reading today. But for John it must have been annoying and difficult to live through. And yet the two Wrights had similar tastes in lifestyle. An active social life. The dramatic clothing and hats. Fancy cars. Both Wrights married artistic, strong willed and independent thinking women. Both in different ways had poor money management and business sense. The senior Wright not paying his bills. John not wanting to pay his license fees.

John was fortunate to have Frances managing money and son in law to Lou sorting out his legal troubles. But relatively little was gained monetarily from his toy inventions and real estate investments. His lasting legacy is about the homes and structures he built. It must have been satisfying for him to know in his life time his community, Del Mar, regarded John Lloyd Wright as their treasure. And correctly so.

http://www.patwelsh.com/about.html

Pat Welsh is known for, among many other talents, her decorative walls. This is at her JLLW designed home in Del Mar.

Architecture

Movie Star

She’s a movie star this 1948 house Frank Lloyd Wright built along the coast of Carmel, California. It appears in the 1959 teen coming of age movie A Summer Place starring Sandra Dee and Troy Donahue. Along with the film’s popular theme song Wright’s copper topped house is about the best thing going for the movie. I haven’t seen it on anyone’s best films list.


There’s no more significant aspect of Wright’s approach to design than his blending of building material to the sight. The beautiful stone work here nicely rises from the jagged rocks of the coastline. The term “Dampfer” was used in Germany in 1908 to describe Wright’s famous Robie House in Chicago. It means “Ocean Liner.” Wright never objected to that. It seems he liked to think of himself as the one designer most closely associated with the term streamlined. This home of Mrs. Clinton Walker faces the Pacific Ocean protected by a nautically worthy sea wall.


The massive chimney supports the cantilevered roof so there is no actual weight upon the corbeling bands of glass providing a peripheral view of the Pacific Ocean and Carmel coastline. The Walker House isn’t unique among Wright’s work as a movie star. Arch Obler’s House on Mulholland Drive appears in the film FIVE. The Ennis House has appeared in numerous movies, perhaps most notable was Bladerunner. I will essay the Ennis House on a future post. It was inevitable Hollywood flirted with Wright. He was hugely famous and popular in the 1950’s. A celebrity as much as renowned artist with numerous highly noted appearances on television. Matching wits with Mike Wallace being one of the more legendary encounters. He was also the guest of Hugh Downs and Alistair Cooke among several others. There was quite a buzz about the fact Wright stole Mike Wallace’s prepared questions. And he refused to “rehearse” with Alistair Cooke. Being supremely confident of his ability to think quickly with sharp spicy answers, he didn’t want to lose any spontaneous edge with prepared or scripted material.

Although he was well into his 80’s, this was the most prolific period of his career. “I can’t get the work out fast enough.” His style was hugely influential in all realms of design, especially in the 1950’s. “They even copy my mistakes.”

Warner Brothers wanting Wright to design the sets for Fountainhead seemed a perfect plan. But Wright wanted his standard 10 percent fee. The Studio wasn’t keen on paying out that kind of money for sets. They explained that 10 percent of the sets budget was extreme. But considering this was the great Frank Lloyd Wright they agreed to pay it. However Wright wasn’t talking about ten percent of sets budget. He meant the entire movie budget. End of negotiation; end of discussion.


Alfred Hitchcock wanted Frank Lloyd Wright to design the Vandamm house that appears on Mount Rushmore in North By Northwest. But Hitchcock wasn’t about to pay Wright’s fee either. He instructed set designers to render a house with all the elements the public would recognize as Frank Lloyd Wright. To this day it is easy to watch the movie and think the house was by Wright. Hitchcock–always the master trickster.

Wright had another strong connection to Hollywood. Anne Baxter was his grand-daughter. Wright biographer Brendan Gill: “Having worked hard to gain celebrity, FLLW was happy to meet and mingle with other celebrities. He had reason to be pleased when one of his grand-daughters, actress Anne Baxter, became famous.”


Wright designed a home for Marilyn Monroe and Arthur Miller. He was quite taken with the actress. A famous Wright quote: “I think Ms. Monroe’s architecture is extremely good architecture” Wright wanted no interruption and not be disturbed when presenting Marilyn with drawings and discussing plans. And that went for Mrs. Wright as well–everybody, “stay out!” Even at 90 years of age Wright especially enjoyed his designed environment when it was graced by Marilyn’s presence. Monroe and Miller never built their FLLW circular\rectangular house. The marriage ended.

Dan Soderberg Photography

Wonder

From the comfort of air conditioned automobiles the wonders of the Mojave Desert are viewed much differently today than in the times when names such as Death Valley and Funeral Mountains were chosen for these locations.

A lady meditates amongst the mineral deposits of Death Valley known as Artist’s Palette.

I’m not sure prospectors of olden days spent much time meditating here in the other- world beauty of Death Valley. Recreational communing with nature would have been an unimaginable concept to them I would think. Livelihood if not existence here was tough business. Prospector Jack Keene scratched around the Funeral Mountains without success for some 8 years. But his dogged persistence paid off. He and fellow digger Domingo Etcharren hit pay dirt –gold– on the Death Valley slope of the Funeral Mountains in late 1903. Their 1904 claim was named “Wonder.” Both sold their claim for $45,000. The yield of the mine –gold and silver– was estimated at nearly a million dollars. It was part of the “Bullfrog” lode that created the city of Rhyolite.

The Keane Wonder Mill. The raw ore was deposited here from mine buckets delivered by a tram wire. Ore was crushed then pulverized before the valuable elements were separated mechanically, chemically, by slurry and wash.

Domingo Etcharren went on to buy a store in Darwin. Jack Keane returned to his homeland Ireland where he landed in prison after a sentence of 17 years for killing someone.

In 1908 the mine site had a house, an office building and a cookhouse. There were plans for an ice house as well. By 1909, 50 men were working at the mill and the mine. Work also began on a cyanide mill used for separating gold from rock.

The Wonder Tram.

The mill and tram were powered by gravity. With an elevation drop of 1, 300 feet from mine shafts to mill, loaded ore buckets traveled a descent of about a mile pushed by gravity on a tram wire stretched between eleven towers. The energy generated not only sustained the tram but pumped water, operated an ore crusher and the mill. The self sustaining power concept seems to be a technology applicable today somewhere, somehow.

“Old Dinah” a steam engine tractor used to haul Wonder ore to the train line at Rhyolite. On the third trip, the tractor blew a flue and was abandoned on the spot. Now it commands tourist attention at the Furnace Creek Ranch.

Keane’s Wonder mine shut down in 1912 with the announcement it was tapped out. It started up again in 1914 but went went idle once more in 1916. It restarted in 1935 to rework the tailings with Cyanide. The Chemical was stored in these large tanks.

The mine closed again in 1937. The next interest in Wonder came in 1940.

The tram was refurbished. Machines retooled and geared up. But operation was not meant to be. In 1942 all usable gear except the tram was moved to other mines. In 1972 the abandoned mine site came under the protective reach of the National Park Service.

Dan Soderberg Photography

White Gold


A Death Valley icon. The 20 mule team borax wagons of the Harmony Borax Works. Each wagon empty weighs 7,800 pounds. A mule team pulled a load of 10 tons.

The tank held water. A 20 mule team was actually 18 mules. Two of the twenty animals were large horses, the “wheelers,” the ones closest to wagon wheels. This position required more strength and start up power. Horses handled the jarring wagon tongue better. And one horse carried a rider. However the remainder were mules which were “smarter” and sturdier in Death Valley heat. They made a trek of 165 miles, about 10 days, to a railroad depot.

The larger borax wagon wheels stand seven feet tall.

Only ruins remain of Harmony Borax works. The site went idle in 1888.


On December 31, 1974, the site was placed on the National Register of Historic Places.

Nowadays, Borax, the “White Gold” comes from Boron, California, under domain of U.S. Borax. The product to this day serves many household uses.